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From Takeout to the Throne: The Chinese Restaurant That Once Served the Future Pope

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Sweet and Sour Chicken a favourite dish of Cardinal Prevost (Photo by Janesca on Unsplash)
Sweet and Sour Chicken a favourite dish of Cardinal Prevost (Photo by Janesca on Unsplash)

Before becoming Pope Leo XIV, Cardinal Robert Prevost was a regular at a small Chinese restaurant near the Vatican, cherished for its warmth and simplicity.

Newsroom (04/02/2026 Gaudium Press ) When Pope Leo XIV was still Cardinal Robert Prevost, a familiar order echoed through the compact kitchen of Kungfu Express, a humble Chinese eatery just beyond the Vatican walls: “I’ll have the sweet and sour chicken, spring rolls, and the dumplings, please.”

In 2024, the year before his election to the papacy, the Chicago-born cardinal made this small restaurant his retreat from the formality of Vatican life. The owner, LinNing Tang, remembers him fondly — not just as a loyal customer, but as a kind and humble man who always greeted others with warmth.

“He used chopsticks very well,” Tang said with a proud smile, recalling how naturally the future pope embraced the moment — chatting with other patrons, complimenting the dishes, and thanking the staff as he left.

A Cardinal’s Favorite Refuge

Kungfu Express sits tucked among cobbled Roman streets where clergy often stroll in cassocks and simple black suits. For Tang, the restaurant’s clientele — priests, sisters, cardinals, and Vatican staff — became an everyday sight. “A lot of cardinals live nearby,” Tang explained. “Sometimes they eat here or just order takeaway. This is a fast food restaurant, so it’s very convenient.”

But in 2025, convenience transformed into an astonishing point of pride. As the world watched the white smoke rise over St. Peter’s Basilica, Tang followed the conclave live. When Cardinal Prevost’s name and face appeared on screen, he blinked in disbelief.

“This is Cardinal Prevost!” he recalled saying aloud. “I did not expect him to become the future pope. It’s really a blessing.”

A Familiar Wave from the Holy Father

Since his election, Pope Leo XIV can no longer stroll down to Kungfu Express for his favorite sweet-and-sour chicken. Yet Tang and his staff feel the bond remains. On December 8, 2025 — the feast of the Immaculate Conception — they stood outside their restaurant as the papal motorcade passed by from Piazza di Spagna. From the back seat, Pope Leo waved warmly, recognizing the faces that once welcomed him for lunch.

Not long afterward, a member of the Swiss Guard, another regular customer, relayed a special message. “He said the pope sends his regards,” Tang shared. That gesture, simple yet heartfelt, carried immense meaning for the small staff.

Ties That Run Deeper

For Tang, his restaurant’s connection to the papacy reflects more than chance. It speaks to a spiritual bond stretching from Rome to his home province of Fujian, China — birthplace of China’s first Catholic bishop and first recognized martyr.

“I thank Christianity for spreading love during the missions to China,” Tang said. “Catholicism not only brought God into China but also knowledge, arts, mathematics, and physics — and vice versa.”

His hope now is to one day host Pope Leo XIV again. “I would thank him and also thank God for bringing Christianity to China,” he said earnestly. “It is very hard, but I hope he will come to the restaurant again.”

Hospitality as a Mission

Inside Kungfu Express, hospitality isn’t just a business principle — it’s a creed. A framed verse from Hebrews 13:2 greets every diner: “Do not neglect hospitality, for through it some have unknowingly entertained angels.”

“It’s our motto that we have to treat guests with love,” Tang said. “Without knowing it, we have received angels — like Pope Leo.”

In a city where history and holiness often meet in marble halls, this little restaurant serves as a reminder that grace can also be found over shared meals, chopsticks in hand, and a warm smile from the man who would one day become pope.

  • Raju Hasmukh with files from NCR Online

 

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